how the Other Half lives
Yishilan and Jinjunhui are a Korean couple in their 30s. They're certainly the most likeable of all my classmates (mostly young, vagely directionless college students half-heartedly floating along the strong river current of class privilege toward a blood-stained corporate career in international business). I'm always impressed by how sweet Yishilan and Jinjunhui are to each other, even within a classroom setting. They have two kids and often speak lovingly of them as well. I always forget that heteronormative coupling and nuclear family units can exist in non-abusive ways, so they seem like a refreshing surprise... even if they, like everyone else here, constantly ask me why I don't want a boyfriend. Earlier today I biked to their home where we made dumplings and played Uno (the card game) with their two hyperactive boys for far too long.
On Wednesday they (along with other classmates) came over to my place for dinner. A Chinese-Dutch kid in my class cooked bland Dutch food ("It's not supposed to look good- it's Dutch food," he would shrug when our classmates poked nervously at his boiled lettuce-and-potato dish) and I made an eclectic meal consisting of pseudo-Mexican and vegan-Chinese-American cuisine.
I have refrained for the most part from talking about politics with these people- which is easy because our conversations are pretty limited by our lack of a common language. However, a dozen or so weak beers into the evening I ended up trying to interest the older folks and the English speakers in Korean independent media websites, Japanese noise bands and questionable propaganda put out by various political left groups throughout Asia. It turns out that Jinjunhui had been a kid when the Kwangju Massacre happened (http://www.anarkismo.net/newswire.php?story_id=557) and still felt very emotional about it. Tears actually began welling up in Yishilan's eyes when we sang (I hummed) the tune from that student uprising, and she was also very affected by the photos of the Korean Peasants League from the Hong Kong WTO protests. I suddenly felt an affinity with the couple that I hadn't managed to cultivate with pretty much anyone else here.
It nearly broke my shriveled heart when Jinjunhui admitted that the two of them were learning Mandarin so that they could eventually open up a trade company here. Just this morning I read an article written by the Chinese Working Women's Network which really spelled out the ways that different Asian nationals exploit the working poor of neighboring countries through the system of subcontracting in manufacturing. The ultimate beneficiaries are, of course, mostly multi-national corporations from "First World" countries. The fact that Yishilan and Jinjunhui can be "conscious" or whatever yet have to/ want to participate in a economic relationship that can benefit them only if it exploits others is definitely not different than how things work in the States. There are plenty of fucked-up "progressive" landlords and bosses, and usually they're the worst to deal with. Yet I certainly don't hang out with most self-deceiving liberals in the States because I don't have many reasons to interact with them and would rather spend time with other people. Here though, amidst a landscape of privileged foreign students, Sinophiles and social climbing upper class Chinese people who think that America is great, I'm having to rediscover what it's like to try to find affinity with people that you have no affinity with.
And in that process I'm coming up again on how complicated it is to be human in this world. Just the simple fact that all of us, all of us, no matter what, are just people with names and addresses and roles to play and chances to refuse and stations that we can't deny... a basic responsibility to to each other than never gets addressed... it just is too much for me to comprehend right now. How do we even begin to relate to each other, how can we trust anyone else at all, and how is it that we're stuck in a world that's put together like this when neither of us have agreed to these rules?... And then how can anything really change in the world if we can't trust each other, if we can't relate to each other even when we have no affinity? How do we re-draw these lines when clearly we're not in the same place, but every map we know has only failed us thus far?
The sheer magnitude of things here makes everything feel that much more apocolyptic. Certainly this moment in time is being hyped as this pivotal time. All around the world there is sort of a grim acceptance that what happens to China in the next 20 years is going to hugely impact everyone, everywhere- and what happens here could result in a new degree of international acceptance that the US/ capitalist narrative of global neoliberal "democratic" capitalist development is indeed the only way for the rest of the world to proceed... and/ or the teeming peasant and worker uprisings here could fundamentally challenge it and open up new space for others to challenge it. Maybe it's just that I've swallowed the hype, but when I think about another 1,306,313,812 people (China's population) in the world driving cars/ being bosses/ being slaves/ creating a new and better world of possibilities, I am fucking overwhelmed.
On my end of things, so far being in Beijing has been something of an anthropological study of rich people and has provided me with a new angle to view how privilege operates (The variation of white supremacy that exists here is different than in the US with slightly different functions- but that's another essay entirely.) It's definitely been a mind-bending experience to affiliate primarily with the global elite. My initial emotional revulsion has fermented into a seasoned and more detached interest in my subjects as I now partake in their activities to better observe them (I'm joking, sort of, I promise). My limited research confirms the worst suspiscions I've had about the state of the human condition: That as long as there are consumer items like cars and televisions and movies to distract the rich, the rich will demand bigger SUVs and more stupid American products until we all fucking die from war and pollution. People here who are far from rich can easily see that when foreign investors come in, they get special treatment while they are here and for setting up these uncomplicated processes by which to completely suck out all the wealth from this country for years to come. By and large, the response from locals seems not to be all-out revulsion I would expect but rather curiosity and even tempered admiration for the foreign investors. It's the same in too many places, right?
Similarly, people respond to my national citizenship in surprising and embarassing ways. One person, a fruit vendor, hummed the US national anthem at me while I turned red and tried desperately to hush him. He seemed perplexed at my reaction.
"It's the soundtrack to bombs falling on Iraq, Afghanistan, Lebanon..." I tried to explain, finally resorting to hand gestures and "boom" noises to mimick explosions.
"Ah," he sighed, furrowing his brow for a moment. "America is like Heaven," he concluded nonetheless, gesturing to the red-orange sun behind the perpetual gray smog..
"If Heaven can only exist if there's Hell, then it's no good anyway," I responded. "Fuck Heaven."
He didn't understand me, and I couldn't understand him, so we smiled wanly at each other over a fruit stand while I fretted about the limited nature of our conversation and about what harmful dynamics might be playing out even in this small exchange.
I did not come here to hobnob with the business class, or to try to strike up friendships with random strangers with whom I have no basic affinity. Through proximity and the very basic desire for basic human contact however, I've formed fragile, tenuous relationships with some of these faceless, nameless, yet essential players in this doomed and miserable game of existence under international capitalism. It's so weird. Nineteen year-olds who willingly choose "International Marketing" as college majors and who know nothing about the world except that the service is always too slow and the bill- any bill- can always be paid. They're hideous monsters who ought to be stabbed in their sleep for the roles they're willing to play so that they can be comfortable while others (the "less fortunate") suffer. But they're also mere children, confused and desperate and also longing for some sort of meaning to all of this mess. Give these kids a gun and chances are they won't run off and murder strangers. But hand them privilege and entitlement and these same kids won't bat an eyelash hailing a cab while turning away from the old man on the street haggling tourists for spare change. They function in socially acceptable ways, are often decent people for the most part, who like to dance or cook and travel and read; they seem to accept their privileged stations in life with no trouble at all, sleep soundly with plenty, feel completely unimplicated while others die from lack.
At a outrageously hip ex-pat club last night, the Chinese-Ducth classmate of mine and I took a break from dancing. Despite the on/off impulses to slaughter and rob everyone near me, I was in good spirits, all things considering. The songs were the same US Top 40 they play at any club or party in the States I would go to (I guess I forget that Lil Kim isn't always played in a queer context), and if you managed to somehow ignore the gazillions of white man-Chinese woman couples engaged in acts of grotesque humping all along the dancefloor, one could forget this was Beijing, not San Francisco.
"They charge so much for drinks here, and if you order something but don't tip well, then forget it- you'll never get your drink," my classmate shook his head.
"Well, of course you have to tip," I snapped. "The staff doesn't get paid enough to attend to you if you don't tip."
His normally complacent demeanor wrinkled: "That's not my fault they don't get paid enough!"
I glared at him: "Well, actually, if you think about it all- it is. It's everyone's fault."
We sat uncomfortaby, avoiding looking in each other's direction while Eminem blared from the other room and behind me, a horribly ugly old white man groped his gorgeous Chinese girlfriend. She giggled and batted his hand away. Meanwhile a throng of unattarctive white frat boys hung on each others shoulders, wailing and shouting to Bon Jovi in a sweaty, panicked desperation that I suppose mimed good cheer and good ol' boy comraderie.
Earlier in the night I accompanied my bizarre group of international acquaintances- primarily Korean and Japanese stylish boys who like American R&B, and the few girls who smoke cigarettes and want to go drinking- to a total of four different bars and two restaurants. Life was like a tv show. Gaofei, a Colombian man with startling white skin, ginger-colored hair and a boyish, charming demeanor, is an aspiring businessman with (apparently) a Chinese girlfriend who does his laundry. He wins smiles from all the locals and respect from far too many people. I fucking hate him especially for his carefree false innocence. As he grinningly danced to the blasting salsa music at the festive nightclub, I thought about how shitty it was that I didn't trust any of these people I came with because of their total lack of concern with the world- and simultaneously I grow to like more and more of these kids, their strange quirks and unique personalities: Takky the spacey Japanese kid who wore sunglasses on the back of his head and was constantly clowning around, Ini the Korean girl who chain-smoked and constantly invited more people to join us.
And I thought about how if a revolution broke out right now all the people who sweep the streets with brooms made from branches, all the people who haul scrap wood and metal and fruits and vegetables to and away from the city on go-cart contraptions huffing acrid sweet-sour air, would crash through the doors past the well-stocked bar and onto the golden-lit dancefloor, mid-hand clap, overturning glass tables and then maybe our blood would run in rivulets down the gutters of the hot, wet streets where the cab drivers and bar men speak key English phrases like "cheap beer, dude." I wondered if our blood spilt, streaming down the trendy tourist zoo of SanLiTun would be a bad thing, or a good thing, or neither... and what would it mean anyway, more suffering upon more death...
Throughout the night as we sat and drank and ate, I counted the number of people who had to work in order for us to merely exist doing what we were doing: By the end of the night, I counted nearly 60. We were merely 8 people.
These students don't work at all. It's fucking unbelievable. They literally hang out ALL DAY LONG at charming outdoor patios and cafes while other people serve them food and beverages. "I'm a student," they tell me as an explanation for why they don't have jobs. I can't understand how being A Student means that somehow you don't need to work. What they mean is: "I am rich." When, at 22 or whatever, they do get jobs, they will be corporate careers in international finance and the like. These kids will never actually Work. But they will in effect own the lives of all the others who do work.
Call me naive, but being up close and amongst people who are so "nice" yet behave like complete assholes who only care about their own narrow self-interest- and for whom the world is built to serve- really eats away at the frayed edges of my hope for any kind of non-violent (I mean that as in, without gratuitous bloodbaths, prisons and other institutionalized violence) and meaningful transformation of society. I've arrived only at cross-eyed, inconculsive generalities at where this chain of death leads: None of us are fully guilty, and none of us are innocent. Anyway, who cares about guilt or innocence? It's just more weird residual Christian shit...it doesn't change anything. I don't want to operate from guilt- although having privilege in this world does imply guilt, and I think it's what so many activists and organizers and others do operate on. Maybe it's unavoidable. I don't know. Even all our talk about Accountability ultimately rests on guilt. How can you try to hold someone Accountable if they feel no sense of conscience? It's that smugness of the unaccountable that incurs those fantasies of "revolutionary bloodshed" I've inherited from who knows where (Clifford Harper anarchist woodcut illustrations and McCarthy Red Scare propaganda combined, maybe)...I suppose that's probably not Transformatively Just. All these vague ideals and honest impulses are tied in knots, no names and addresses to contextualize the tough talk...
But then the opposite of guilt is privileged self-involvement, and it's too easy for entitled people who deny their stake in systems of oppression to merely act out their privilege on all sorts of stages of their own devising. For the activist-inclined, privilege can the ability to be able to declare the renunciation of privilege that can't ever actually be shed. So I've got no answers here, nope.
Ultimately I can admit that I know that the venom and vengeance and outrage don't make things right; neither do "alternative living" avoidance strategies or New Age hippie "change your outlook" shit... But all that just leaves the despair and resulting helplessness of watching this barely concealed violence pass for normal everyday life. Mix in an amount of only slightly-watered down Hope and you get a rabid contempt for the most obvious perpetrators, somewhat obscuring the complicated reality of how oppression and violence manifest and play out. Allow me to drag out the platitudes again: We are all implicated, and we are all in this together... I know it's true, but why does it sound like a threat, feel like an excuse?
